Dumas Restaurant – A gentle gourmet touch in Loja Ecuador

Whatever the correct formula might be for a restaurant to be successful in Loja, it seems that Dumas found it. There is this “je ne sais quoi” that makes one immediately feel as a regular customer although it might be the very first time.

Is it the nice relaxing classic rock – jazz – 1950/60/70 something that is playing ?

Is it Roberto’s always smiling and inviting face, making you want to sit down and enjoy his French inspired gastronomy?

Is it that social atmosphere that permeates the place where families come to eat together or individuals are happy to join a table with strangers who will become new friends?

Or could it be the decoration, the wooden furniture and the original paintings on the wall?

Or the typical “almuerzo with a gourmet touch” that Dumas has on offer every single day of the week ?

Could it be that deserts are your worse sin and Dumas is your redemption ?

Or could it be the classy, professional, super fast and always friendly service that Roberto and Patricio his very experienced garcon provide ?

To me it seems that it is all of the above combined.

A la carte or set menu ?

At noon, Dumas offers “almuerzos”, usually a soup, a choice of two mains and one desert. For those who are not familiar with life in Ecuador, the word “almuerzo” of course as the dictionary says means “lunch” but it also has another meaning.

Firstly, it means a three course meal made out of a soup of the day, a choice between 2 or some times 3 mains (a meat, a fish) and a small desert. It also includes a non alcoholic beverage such as horchata or juice. Portions are rather small, in my view anyway, but that is what people want here because they also eat at night.

Secondly and most importantly the word “almuerzo” conveys the meaning of “economical“, not expensive, something around the $3 dollar mark per person all included whereas “a la carte” is usually at least double that price.

Dumas does not offer a la carte menus during the day except wen they run out of almuerzos. They do serve a la carte at night though and that will be covered in the next article.

Part 1 : Lunch Time Set Menu

I arrived on this beautiful Tuesday at around 12 noon when things slowly pick up until the place gets in full swing at around 1 PM. This is the famous “almuerzo”, this time of the day when everything comes to a grinding halt in Loja, when people leave the office, shops close their door and people focus on one and only one thing: EAT.

Dumas is conveniently located only a few steps from Loja central square

While the entire city of Loja goes to sleep, Dumas goes into a frenzy serving their delicious lunches. These lunches are not complicated. This is not the time for gastronomy. This is a time and a place for families, friends, colleagues and couples to eat the typical lunch that they are used to but very importantly with a touch of something that I call

“the gourmet touch“

This day, after the traditional soup of the day, we had a “lomito de cerdo con salza de ciruela” (pork tenderloin with plum sauce) and a homemade carrot cake for desert which I personally enjoyed with a good cup of espresso coffee.

Roberto makes everything himself from fresh ingredients, meaning that his day starts way before lunch time, making bread, making pastries, making sauces … Roberto who is only 30 studied and worked 4 years in Buenos Aires, then came back to his home land Ecuador to work at “Chez Jérôme” in Quito for Jerome Montelier, a french chef of international reputation. Roberto told me that he was his “sous-chef”. Then after working two years on a boat in Galapagos he finally decided to drop the “sous” in the word “sous-chef” and become his own “chef” in his restaurant called “Dumas” in Loja Ecuador.

His entire family works there which is yet another proof of this amazing family spirit that Ecuadorians have.

His sister is at the counter, his mother runs the kitchen, his brother helps at the table, even his father lays a hand during peak time.

I was early and I have to admit that just watching all this food being prepared in anticipation of the peak hour made me very hungry. I sat down at the end of one of the large tables and enjoyed my lunch while there were still few people.

I strongly recommend people who read this post and who like me enjoy a quite time to eat to go either early (before 12:30) or late (after 2PM).

Later on, people came to sit down at my table and we chatted. I found out that many people come here every single day. The entire place started looking like a beehive. It struck me that everybody was laughing and having a good time. I got up to wander around and take a few photos. I went upstairs. They have two floors. Everyone seemed happy, relaxed and nobody seemed to be waiting.

Conclusion

After having lunch at Dumas, you may no longer want to have an “almuerzo” anywhere else. Indeed, why pay the same price to get a very plain tasteless 90% white rice “almuerzo” somewhere when for the same price you can get that gourmet touch and enjoy a nice recipe with a french sounding name?

Other places should follow the example and learn to develop some culinary imagination to provide better lunches. That would certainly benefit Loja and attract more tourism.

Definitely a thumbs up for Dumas Trattoria and Restaurant and his friendly owner Roberto Delgado. Give it a try by all means a let us know in the comment section below what you think.

Contacts

Address: Jose Antonio Eguiguren y Bernardo Valdivieso, Loja, Ecuador
Tel: +593 (0)7 256-1494
Social networks: https://www.facebook.com/dumastrattoria
Opening Hours: 12:00 – 21:00 hours

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